Garlic isn’t just a staple in the kitchen. It’s one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow in your home garden. Whether you’re a beginner gardener or a seasoned green thumb understanding exactly how to plant garlic can lead to a flavorful harvest, pest resistant beds and long lasting storage bulbs.
In this comprehensive guide, you’ll learn everything from choosing the right variety to planting, maintaining, harvesting and storing garlic successfully.
Why Plant Garlic in Your Garden?
Before diving into the planting process, let’s address why you should even grow garlic in the first place:
- Low maintenance: Garlic requires little upkeep once planted.
- Pest-repellent: Acts as a natural deterrent against pests like aphids and slugs.
- Long shelf life: Properly cured garlic can last 6–9 months.
- High yield: Each clove planted becomes a full bulb at harvest.
- Flavorful and fresh: Home grown garlic is more potent and nutritious than store bought.
When to Plant Garlic
Garlic should be planted in the fall, typically 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes. This gives the cloves time to establish roots before winter then go dormant and resume growth in spring.
Ideal planting window:
- Northern climates: Late September to October
- Mild climates: October to early November
This fall planting method gives garlic the required cold exposure (called vernalization) it needs to produce well-formed bulbs.
Can you plant garlic in the spring?
Yes but fall planting yields larger bulbs. Spring planting is less reliable unless using pre chilled cloves.
Choosing the Right Garlic Variety
There are two main types of garlic:
1. Hardneck Garlic
- Ideal for cold climates
- Produces fewer but larger cloves
- Sends up garlic scapes (flower stalks)
- Shorter shelf life (4–6 months)
2. Softneck Garlic
- Best for warmer climates
- More cloves per bulb
- Doesn’t produce scapes
- Longer shelf life (6–9 months)
- Commonly found in grocery stores
Choose garlic from a garden center or seed supplier not supermarket garlic which may be treated to prevent sprouting.
How to Prepare the Soil
Garlic thrives in loose, well drained, fertile soil with full sun exposure.
Soil Requirements:
- Soil pH: 6.0–7.0
- Type: Sandy loam or loam preferred
- Sunlight: At least 6 hours of full sun daily
- Drainage: Avoid heavy clay or soggy beds
- Nutrients: Add organic compost (2–3 inches thick) before planting
If soil is compacted work in sand or leaf mold to improve structure. Raised beds also work exceptionally well for garlic.
How to Plant Garlic (Step-by-Step)
Step 1: Prepare the Cloves
- Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves.
- Do not peel the cloves keep the papery skin on.
- Choose the largest and healthiest cloves. Discard small or damaged ones.
Step 2: Determine Spacing and Depth
- Planting depth: 2–3 inches deep
- Spacing: 4–6 inches between cloves; 12 inches between rows
- Orientation: Pointy end up, flat root end down
Tip: Use a dibber or your finger to make holes to the right depth.
Step 3: Plant the Cloves
- Insert each clove into the hole, pointy end up.
- Cover with soil and gently firm it down.
Step 4: Mulch the Bed
- Apply 3–6 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves or grass clippings).
- Mulch helps regulate soil temperature, retain moisture and suppress weeds.
- Leave mulch in place throughout winter.
Garlic Care Throughout the Seasons
Winter
Garlic remains dormant, but roots continue growing slowly. Keep mulch intact for insulation.
Spring
Green shoots will appear as temperatures warm. Fertilize with nitrogen-rich fertilizer (like blood meal or fish emulsion) once early growth begins. Watering: About 1 inch per week during active growth. Avoid soggy soil.
Summer
In hardneck varieties, remove garlic scapes once they curl. This redirects energy to bulb formation. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to avoid mold and allow skins to toughen.
Harvesting Garlic
Garlic is usually ready to harvest in mid to late summer around 8–9 months after fall planting.
Signs of Readiness:
- Lower 2–3 leaves are brown and dry
- Upper leaves are still green
- Bulbs are well formed and covered in intact wrappers
How to Harvest:
- Loosen soil with a fork or trowel don’t pull by the stems.
- Gently lift the bulbs from the soil.
Curing and Storing Garlic
Garlic needs to cure before storing to extend its shelf life.
Curing Process:
- Leave stalks and roots attached
- Hang in bundles or lay flat in a well ventilated shaded area
- Cure for 2–3 weeks
- Avoid direct sunlight or moisture
Once cured:
- Trim the roots and stalks
- Store bulbs in mesh bags, paper bags, or baskets
- Keep in a cool, dry place (60–65°F) with good air circulation
Softneck garlic stores for up to 9 months, hardneck for 4–6 months.
Companion Planting with Garlic
Garlic improves the health of your garden by deterring pests and enhancing soil.
Best Companions:
- Tomatoes
- Carrots
- Beets
- Spinach
- Cabbage
- Roses
Avoid planting garlic near peas or beans as it may hinder their growth.
Common Garlic Growing Problems
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Yellowing leaves | Nitrogen deficiency or poor drainage |
| Small bulbs | Late planting, poor soil, shallow depth |
| Mold or rot | Avoid overwatering; ensure proper curing |
| Pests (thrips, nematodes) | Rotate crops yearly and inspect bulbs |
Final Thoughts
Growing garlic is incredibly rewarding. Once planted in the fall, it requires minimal maintenance and produces a robust harvest in summer. By following the correct steps from choosing the right variety and planting at the right depth, to curing and storing, you’ll enjoy flavorful garlic all year long.
Take the time now to prepare your soil, select healthy cloves and get those bulbs in the ground before the frost. Your future self (and your kitchen) will thank you.
FAQs on How to Plant Garlic
Q: Can I plant garlic from grocery store bulbs?
Not recommended. These are often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry disease.
Q: How many garlic bulbs will I get per clove planted?
Each clove becomes one full bulb, typically containing 4–12 new cloves.
Q: Can I grow garlic in containers?
Yes. Use deep pots (at least 8–10 inches) with well-draining soil.
Q: What happens if I don’t harvest garlic?
It will start to split and deteriorate underground, or attempt to regrow.
